These Walking Dreams: Day 10 (April 22, 2017)

Kanoya, Kagoshima β†’ Kihoku Ichinari, Kagoshima

Map of Kyushu with the route of These Walking Dreams highlighted. Maps Β© Thunderforest, Data Β© OpenStreetMap πŸ—Ί Open map in GaiaGPS ⇝


Broken rain roofs in Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz

Lancia Delta HF Integrale in Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz

Lancia Delta HF Integrale in Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz

Lancia Delta HF Integrale in Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz

Rusting things in Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz πŸ“ Kanoya, Kagoshima

After a week in the deep countryside, Kanoya is a dizzying metropolis of well-stocked supermarkets, excellent bathhouses, and a red Lancia Delta HF Integrale peeking out of a garage in what must be a Sisyphean battle against rust and decay in the hot and humid climate of Kagoshima. But a closer look reveals the vacuum of rural Japan: a main shopping street where every pane of the rain roof is broken and where every other store is boarded up and abandoned.


Cedar logs in Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz πŸ“ Kanoya, Kagoshima

Ordnung muß sein when it comes to stacking logs of cedar at a farmhouse north of Kanoya, but really, why wouldn’t you stack logs like this?


Towels on a rack in Kihoku Ichinari, Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz

Sign behind a fence with distance to Tokyo in Kihoku Ichinari, Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz

Oranges for sale in Kihoku Ichinari, Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz

New ditch in Kihoku Ichinari, Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz πŸ“ Kihoku Ichinari, Kanoya, Kagoshima


Gate of a country house in Kihoku Ichinari, Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz

Statue of Kōbō Daishi at Renseiji temple in Kihoku Ichinari, Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz

Tree in bloom at Renseiji temple in Kihoku Ichinari, Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz πŸ“ Kihoku Ichinari, Kanoya, Kagoshima


Lawson convenience store in Kihoku Ichinari, Kanoya, Kagoshima. Photo: Peter Orosz πŸ“ Kihoku Ichinari, Kanoya, Kagoshima

The Japanese convenience store is one of the perfect expressions of human commerce. You don’t necessarily appreciate them until they thin out in the countryside, often separated by a day’s walk or more. They are a grocery store, a copy shop, a bank, a post office, a public bathroom, and a rest area all in one, open 24 hours a day, with cold beer, hot coffee, and bland but nourishing food. They can also be frighteningly lonely places, like this one in the village of Kihoku Ichinari, in the complete darkness of a Japanese evening, with not a soul on the streets after sundown, and not a sound to be heard. I walked in from the cold and the dark and sat by myself for an hour and a half in the dining area, drinking tea, a creature without language or history, then I disappeared into the night.

Next β†’ Day 11, April 23

Prev. ← Day 9, April 21


These Walking Dreams is a visual field diary of a 4,300-kilometer walk from one end of Japan to the other, in the spring and summer of 2017.