In January and February 2019, I walked across Shikoku, the smallest of Japanâs four main islands. This 500-kilometer journey became the subject of my first book, The Wilds of Shikoku.
Shikoku is known for the pilgrimage in which henro, Buddhist pilgrims, walk between 88 of the islandâs temples. My journey took a different route: I followed in the footsteps of Alan Booth, the English author of The Roads to Sata and Looking for the Lost, who had walked across Shikoku 36 years earlier, in May and June 1983. Boothâs account of his own journey, Roads Out of Time, was published in the posthumous anthology This Great Stage of Fools.
Contents
Following the route described by Booth in Roads Out of Time, I started walking from Cape Kamoda, the easternmost point of Shikoku, on the early afternoon of January 24, 2019. I was accompanied by my friend Gyula Simonyi. Together, we headed for the mountainous interior of Tokushima Prefecture, which forms the eastern quarter of Shikoku, and crossed four high passes until we reached KĆchi Prefecture, the center of the island, on January 30. From there, Gyula traveled back to Tokyo by train, and I walked on alone due west until I reached Cape Sada, the westernmost point of Shikoku, on the evening of February 8.
My journey lasted 16 days, of which 15 were spent walking and one at rest, and took me across three of Shikokuâs four prefectures: Tokushima, KĆchi, and Ehime. I walked every step of the way, a total of about 500 kilometers.
The Wilds of Shikoku, my first book, is about this walk. The book is slim and very large â 36 pages, 260Ă360 mm â and is published in an edition of 500 hand-numbered, unbound, softcover copies, with hand-screened covers.
The book was published in August 2019, and I held two launch parties: Budapest in September and Tokyo in November. At the Tokyo launch, I was joined by editors Nora Selmeczi and Timothy Harris, and we talked about how this project came about.
I kept a field diary on Instagram as I walked, originally published under #thewildsofshikoku: a two-week stream of photos and videos accompanied by entries on what I had seen, experienced, and felt. Parts of it would serve as early drafts of The Wilds of Shikoku.
The diary is republished in expanded form, with more photos and improved maps, but with the written entries kept exactly as they first appeared.
IdĆn kĂvĂŒli vadonban is a Hungarian translation that combines The Wilds of Shikoku with Alan Boothâs Roads Out of Time, the piece that inspired it. Itâs the first Hungarian translation of any of Alan Boothâs works and will be published on this website later in 2025.
You can sign up to this single-use mailing list to receive an email when itâs done.
Get an email when the Hungarian translation of Roads Out of Time/The Wilds of Shikoku is published.
This journey and the subsequent production of The Wilds of Shikoku was supported by an Indiegogo campaign in December 2018 that raised over $11,000 from 164 supporters. Many of their names are included in the print edition of the book.
Gyula Simonyi contributed his photos to both the book and the diary. They arenât labelled individually but make up about one quarter of the photos.
Ross A. Burns, Iwamatsu Ayasa ćČ©æŸç¶ŸæČ, Gyökös Lajos, Nagate Satomi é·æéçŸ, Nishimoto KyĆko è„żæŹäșŹć, Michael Sileny, Yoshihara Hitoshi ććć, Yoshihara MihĂĄly Aoi ććăăă€éèĄŁ, and Yoshihara-HorvĂĄth Hanga helped and supported me while I was in Japan.
Nora Selmeczi contributed, among other things, the tanka poems scattered throughout the diary, and later edited The Wilds of Shikoku.
Timothy Harris, the late Alan Boothâs friend and editor, introduced me and my work to the audience of The Foreign Correspondentsâ Club of Japan, and acted as The Wilds of Shikokuâs other editor. Tim also provided invaluable assistance with the Hungarian translation by clarifying details in Boothâs Roads Out of Time.
Don McNurlanâs ongoing research into Alan Boothâs journeys cleared up many small inconsistencies in my understanding of Boothâs 1983 route.
Japanese words, geographical locations, and personal names are transcribed into English using the Modified Hepburn romanization. Japanese names are written in the Japanese order, the family name first and the given name second. With the exception of the names of Tokyo, Osaka, Hokkaido, Honshu, and Kyushu, spelled in the international style, long vowels are marked with macrons (Ć, Ć«).
Geographical names are based on data from Google Maps, OpenStreetMap, the Geospatial Information Authority of Japan, and other sources. Google Translate and Renzo Japanese were used to clarify transliterations.
Maps are plotted in Gaia GPS, using data from OpenStreetMap, and displayed on Gaia GPSâs Gaia Topo Lite map.
Special thanks to my wife Natalie Kallay, my partner in everything foolish and serious.
Last update: April 19, 2025