Art Nouveau earrings scattered on the rainbow scree, komakusa (Dicentra peregrina) pindot the high slopes of Tōhoku’s volcanoes, their range extending into the north, towards Kamchatka. Mount Zaō’s broad back rose out of the shimmering heat of the plains like a great whale, a white wall in the winter, and I walked down its windblown spine, the mountains rolling in every direction, my left foot in Yamagata, my right in Miyagi, and the crater lake changed colors with the setting sun like a chameleon.