Lake ลŒnuma, Hokkaido โ†’ Otoshibe, Hokkaido

Map of Hokkaido with authorโ€™s route from Lake ลŒnuma to Otoshibe highlighted. ๐Ÿ—บ Open map in GaiaGPS โ†’


A small green train crosses a bridge by a lake. ๐Ÿ“ Lake ลŒnuma, Hokkaido


An empty house with a strangely asymmetrical roof.

An empty street corner in a small town with marks on the asphalt indicating someone having done donuts.

A dramatic-looking volcano, Mount Komagatake, on the horizon beyond golden wheat fields. ๐Ÿ“ Mori, Hokkaido

The city thinned out and turned into fields, and beyond a civil engineerโ€™s dream of a valley, all tangled roads and tunnels and rail lines, the painterly, protean silhouette of Mount Komagatake rose above the lakes, then the bay. The land was a European land, wheat fields glowing golden in the morning sun, but the mountain was a Japanese volcano, gentle slopes below a moonscape summit, and on the northern side of the peninsula, it floated above ramshackle villages clinging to a narrow highway rumbling with trucks.


A manhole cover shows Mount Komagatake from another angle.

Closeup of a bowl of ramen with a piece of butter showing a human fingerprint in the broth. ๐Ÿ“ Mori, Hokkaido

No grocery store in Japan would be complete without sticks of butter from Hokkaido, prominently displaying the manta ray silhouette of the island, and so it didnโ€™t come as much of a surprise that the first ramen restaurant we visited on Hokkaido featured butter ramen on its menu. More peculiar was the culinary confusion served as the end result: a lump of butter chucked into the hot miso broth. Itโ€™s the kind of food only men who spend their days walking could love, and we slurped it up with non-ironic delight.


A vending machine sells, among other things, various sizes of Coke all costing ยฅ100. ๐Ÿ“ Mori, Hokkaido

I wonder if any other product in the world is priced like the Coke sold from this vending machine: pay ยฅ100, and you get as much, or as little, as you want.


A distant view of Mount Komagatake from a debris-covered beach. ๐Ÿ“ Mori, Hokkaido

These Walking Dreams is a visual field diary of a 4,300-kilometer walk from one end of Japan to the other, in the spring and summer of 2017.