Akkeshi, Hokkaido β†’ Kiritappu, Hamanaka, Hokkaido

Map of Hokkaido with author’s route from Akkeshi to Hamanaka highlighted. πŸ—Ί Open map in GaiaGPS β†’

A person in colorful clothes rests among other colorful things in the window display of a shop.

A concrete relief of an underwater scene on an overpass.

A row of Yamaha outboard engines in an overgrown yard.

An overhead view of a fishing boat going at speed.

A plastic crate of oysters half-concealed by a green tarp.

πŸ“ Akkeshi, Hokkaido

A small herd of horses huddle against the wind on a meadow by the ocean.

A white motorcycle speeds down a narrow road, its motion blurred. πŸ“ Mabiro, Hokkaido

Japanese traffic is perhaps the most sedate in the world, old ladies driving little hybrids at Xanax pace, and so the racing motorcycle came as an absolute delight on the coastal road. The noise was deafening, it came from kilometers away, the vespid scream of a bike ridden on the very edge, shaking with barely contained power. It buzzed us a dozen times on the narrow tarmac, until it returned no more, doing what must have been approaching 200 km/h in the long, sweeping corners, and we watched in delight, a private motorcycle race, the opponent in his heart.

A small fishing village nestled between two green hills, the ocean beyond it. πŸ“ Hichirippu, Hokkaido

πŸ“ Biwase, Hamanaka, Hokkaido

These Walking Dreams is a visual field diary of a 4,300-kilometer walk from one end of Japan to the other, in the spring and summer of 2017.