Day 109 (July 30, 2017)

Rebunge, Toyoura, Hokkaido β†’ Makkari, Hokkaido

Map of Hokkaido with author’s route from Rebunge to Makkari highlighted.

Open map in Gaia GPS β†’

Newly laid asphalt by a hillside covered in silken-looking grass.

The edge of the asphalt reveals four layers on top of each other.

Closeup of a snake looking straight into the camera with a clouded-over eye.

πŸ“ Rebunge, Toyoura, Hokkaido

As it nears its next molting, the brilles of a snake cloud over until they are sloughed off in one piece with the old skin, a jumpsuit with built-in welding goggles.


A white Datsun Z sports car in an advanced state of decomposition.

A car repair shop labelled REPAIR MAN.

πŸ“ Yamanashi, Toyoura, Hokkaido

An enormous volcano, Mount Shiribeshi, in the evening light, behind summer fields.
πŸ“ Makkari, Hokkaido

On a late afternoon aboard a Ugandan post bus four summers ago, I rounded a bend and the 4,127-meter pyramid of Mount Muhavura appeared out of nowhere, an oversized piece of Central African landscape fit for my feverish mind. Until I rounded another bend on a late afternoon four summers later and saw Mount Shiribeshi appear in similar fashion, I didn’t think such an overblown presentation of a mountain could ever be reproduced, but here I was again, staring wide-eyed at this middle finger to gravity whose relative height was similar to Muhavura’s. Later, at the bathhouse, I watched it fade into the sky, then walked to its foot.

These Walking Dreams is a visual field diary of a 4,300-kilometer walk from one end of Japan to the other, in the spring and summer of 2017.